She Who Feasts: Judge Beans BBQ

If you're looking for a generous feast for fifty, look no further than the tiny beige building on Church Street that has housed Judge Beans BBQ for over 15 years.

My former business sat behind this beloved treasure, and many days, it felt like we had a battle of the blacktop to see which smell was more powerful: Chef Nick's smoke pillowing barbecue pit roasting meat atop hickory wood or the essence of chocolate chip cookies that wafted from my business doors. He typically won.

One usually doesn't venture to Judge Beans to impress another on a glamorous first date or when looking for the newest fusion combo. From outside appearances, you might think that the owner was trying to keep a low profile with its lack of curb appeal and tucked-away smoker. Stepping in, you understand there is no desire to impress anyone with modern technology or fancy interiors. You will be lucky to find a table that isn't on an unevenly painted slab of plywood or a side table made from a case of beer. You usually come to Judge Beans with one goal: Texas-style barbecue and a cold beer.

Growing up in South Houston, Beans reminds me of my childhood when our favorite barbecue dive was in the fellowship hall of a local church. The food is simple and straightforward, but it is smoked to perfection without needing all the accolades and accoutrements.

We shared a combo platter and sandwich during our most recent visit. The meals come on butcher paper-lined trays; at each table, you will find an array of house-made sauces and most entrees come with a cup of pickles, onions, and a slab of buttered Texas toast.

The brisket and sausage were our favorite proteins served. The brisket had a perfect char on the fat cap and the smokey sausage had a nice snap. Although we passed on the ribs this time, they are some of the best in town, in my humble Texas opinion. We enjoyed the smoked turkey with white sauce and the crispiness of the hand-cut russet potato fries. Our friend ordered the Cowboy Beans and reassured us that they delivered the promised heat level and that the ham-hock smoked turnip greens were cooked perfectly.

With daily selections that rotate weekly and nineties country music playing that's too tempting not to sing along with, Judge Beans is worth the drive for a no-fuss, consistently delicious dive.

She Who Feasts is a column exclusive to the Williamson Scene written by local chief sprinkle officer Brooke O’Dell. As the owner of Sugar Drop, she became known locally for her sweet treats but is a true foodie that is willing to eat her heart out anywhere. In this column, she aims to find meals for around $50 to share with the community that eating good doesn’t have to mean breaking the bank.